Fencing
If you are going to keep Ostriches, you are going to build
fences!
Unfortunately there is no avoiding it, it's kind of that thing......
When constructing your fencing, take time to plan a layout,
remembering that no
doubt your flock will grow over time, and will need to construct more fences.
Plan a layout that is easily added to if necessary, that provides lane-ways for
moving
your birds around, and provides access for any vehicles that may need to
access your property for bird transportation.
Moveable fence, and wind break can be used to create temporary
divisions in outdoor pens.
Note that very young chicks can easily get out through the holes in game-wire
fencing
(and small predators can get in). When chicks are small, you need to temporarily
block
the bottom 40 to 60 cm of this kind of fencing.
It is important to build fences that are smooth and flexible
to reduce risk of injury to the Ostrich.
The fencing should allow some give when run at by a bird, but should not sag.
It should not have any projections or sharp corners.
From about six months of age onward, fencing should preferably
be 1.5 to 1.8 m in height.
Material could be chain link, 5 x 10 cm non-climb wire, game fence, etc.
Perimeter fencing, around the outer edges of your Farm areas,
should extend right to the ground,
and be at least 1.8 to 2 m high. This outer fence then acts as a barrier against
predators
(dogs, cat’s), and prevents birds from escaping.
Posts, wherever possible, should be located on the outside of
the pens with the fence on the
inside, particularly for older birds, to avoid getting their wings or neck
caught on the post or
between post and fence. No narrow gaps should be left between posts and gates,
or between
posts and buildings, because birds can easily get their necks caught and hang
themselves
in these narrow spaces. Wherever such gaps are unavoidable, fill them in with
wire.